1815 Tourbillon Handwerkskunst Anniversary Special Limited Edition

1815 TOURBILLON is the first Lange watch that combines a tourbillon stop-second device and a zero reset device. This year marks the 200th anniversary of Ferdinand Adolph Lange. At the end of the year, the brand has launched a limited edition HANDWERKSKUNST to decorate this top with original dial design and movement decoration. Precision watch.
   The German word ‘Handwerkskunst’ is interpreted as craftsmanship. Lange has named this special limited edition watch since 2011. Its dial and movement are combined with subtle modification and engraving technology. Lange Watch Factory presented 1815 TOURBILLON HANDWERKSKUNST on December 7, 2015. This new work not only injects extraordinary decorative elements, but also has two patented devices.
   The zero-reset function introduced by Lange in 1997 was combined with the tourbillon stop-second device which was introduced in 2008. These devices allow the stop and set functions of the watch to be accurate to the second.

   This special edition watch with a 39.5mm diameter 18K rose gold case is limited to 30 pieces. In commemoration of the 200th anniversary of the birth of Ferdinando Adolf Lange, the brand launched the fifth HANDWERKSKUNST watch this year to pay tribute to the pioneer of precision watchmaking in Saxony.
   The biggest difference between this watch and the 2014 model is the dial. The new dial is made of black rhodium-plated 18K rose gold and should have a delicate ‘tremblage’ engraving. The engraver uses a special carving knife to create a fine and uniform grainy texture on the material. The embossed elements of the dial, including the dazzling curved brand logo and numbers, are mirror-polished to contrast with the dark black background. The large window of the dial shows the operation of the tourbillon. The top of the tourbillon bridge and frame is black polished, which is a very complicated and time-consuming modification technique.

1815 TOURBILLON HANDWERKSKUNST’s movement combined with rare modification technology

   In the magnificently decorated L102.1 homemade movement, every detail reflects precise mechanical characteristics. The newly designed 3/4 splint is unique in its elegant curve. Thanks to the large hollow design, the wearer can easily view the tourbillon combined with the patented stop-second device, as well as the barrel and gear train parts. The grained surface of the German silver splint is derived from the design of a historical pocket watch. Chamfer polishing at concave corners is even more of a challenge, and must be done manually by using specially designed sharp tools. The four-wheeled bridge also adopts a hollow design, which is convenient for viewing the tourbillon. Like the splint and bottom cover, this bridge is also exquisitely carved. Tourbillon diamond end stones make the movement decoration more prominent.

Movement The Lange watch factory manufactures its own L102.1 movement, which is wound by hand and meets Lange’s strictest quality standards. It is carefully modified and assembled by hand; five-way precision adjustment; the plywood and bridge are made of untreated German silver. Manufacturing; 3/4 plywood with grained surface and hand lettering; hand-carved four-wheel bridge
Movement parts 262
Gem bearing 21, including 1 diamond end stone
Screwed gold sleeve 5
Escapement system lever escapement system
Oscillation system Anti-vibration screw balance; watch factory-made balance spring, vibration frequency up to 21,600 times per hour
Power reserve: 72 hours after fully winding
Functions: Hours, minutes and small seconds; one-minute tourbillon with patented stop-seconds function and patented zero reset device
Operating element Crown for winding, setting time and starting zeroing device
Case dimensions Diameter: 39.5 mm; Thickness: 11.1 mm
Movement size diameter: 32.6 mm; thickness: 6.6 mm
Crystal and case back Sapphire crystal (Mohs hardness 9)
Limited edition of 30 pieces
Case 18K rose gold, case back with hand lettering
Dial 18K rose gold, black rhodium-plated; ‘tremblage’ engraving
Hands 18K rose gold hour and minute hands; blue steel seconds hand
Strap Hand-stitched crocodile leather strap, reddish brown
Clasp 18K Rose Gold Folding Clasp

Top Chronograph ‘double King’

Patek Philippe and Lange are the highest positioning brands in the watch, representing the top level of the watch. However, Patek Philippe comes from Switzerland and Lange comes from Germany. The style of the two watches is completely different. Among the players, different ‘camps’ have also formed. Some people like Patek Philippe and some people like Lange. This year, Patek Philippe launched a new generation of manual chronograph 5172. As the top manual chronograph, Lange 1815 chronograph and Patek Philippe 5172 have embarked on two different paths. Today we take a look at what is the difference between Patek Philippe and Lange at the top level.

Patek Philippe 5172G (top) and Lange 1815 chronograph (bottom)
Patek Philippe 5172 chronograph and Lange 1815 chronograph
 5172 is Patek Philippe’s latest manual winding chronograph introduced in 2019. It is an alternative to 5170 (discontinued 5170) and is also a manual winding chronograph currently on sale by Patek Philippe. 1815 chronograph is currently sold by Lange, the purest manual winding chronograph, compared to DATO, 1815 chronograph does not have a large calendar and power display. The Patek Philippe 5172 and Lange 1815 chronographs are the single manual winding chronographs (with the exception of timing, there are no additional functions).

Patek Philippe 5172G is currently only available in platinum.
 The new Patek Philippe 5172 measures 41 mm and is 11.45 mm thick. Compared with Patek Philippe’s previous generation manual chronograph 5170, the new 5172 has increased size (5170 size 39 mm). Patek Philippe has always been the most traditional and restrained brand in the watch world. However, with the changes in the aesthetic trend of watch in these years, Patek Philippe is also changing. It can be seen from 5170 to 5172. The 5172 uses a mushroom-head timing button and a three-piece lug. The three-segment lug is one of the iconic features of 5172. The three-segment lug design is from 2405 in the history of Patek Philippe, which can be seen in the new Patek Philippe watch in recent years.

The Lange 1815 chronograph is available in white and rose gold.
 The Lange 1815 chronograph measures 39.5 mm and is 11 mm thick. Compared to another large iconic manual chronograph DATO of Lange, the size of the DATO is 41 mm. The Lange 1815 chronograph has a reduction in size and thickness because it does not have a large calendar and power display. The size of the Lange 1815 chronograph 39.5 is more traditional. The 1815 chronograph uses straight lugs and square timing buttons. Compared to Patek Philippe 5172, which currently only has a white gold shell, Lange 1815 includes two types: white gold and rose gold.

Patek Philippe 5172
 Patek Philippe’s new 5172 has a very large disc change, which is very different from the previous generation 5170. The biggest feature of the new 5172 is the use of luminous digital time scales and luminous hands. Compared with the Breguet digital time scale on the 5170, the new 5172 digital time scale no longer uses Breguet fonts, the luminous area is large, the needle-shaped pointer also has a large area of ​​luminous. Coupled with the dial’s outer tachymeter ring, the style of this generation 5172 is biased towards retro and sports. One is different from the previous Patek Philippe manual chronograph, and the other is close to the current aesthetic trend of famous watches. At the same time, one of the characteristics of the Patek Philippe manual chronograph dial layout is that the small second dial and the 30-minute chronograph dial are located below the centerline of the dial. This is the signature feature of the Patek Philippe CH29 chronograph. Patek Philippe said that the reason it was designed to prevent counterfeiting (generally chronographs are horizontal).

Lange 1815 chronograph
 The Lange 1815 chronograph has a very traditional dial. The 1815 chronograph uses digital time scales and sword-shaped hands. The time scales and hands have no luminous light. The time scale font and hands are very classical. Compared to the sportier tachymeter lap, the outer ring of the Lange 1815 chronograph is a pulse meter. The design of the Lange 1815 chronograph completely continues the line of the Lange 1815 series. Based on Lange’s historical pocket watch design, it adheres to the classic and classic routes. In the layout of the small seconds dial and the 30-minute counter, Lange and Patek Philippe can say that ‘hero sees the same thing.’ Lange also puts two small dials below the centerline of the dial. On the Lange DATO chronograph, the large 12 o’clock calendar and the two sunken small dials form a solid ‘triangular’ layout, balanced and beautiful.

The CH29 manual chronograph movement used by Patek Philippe 5172.
 5172 uses Patek Philippe CH29-535PS manual chronograph movement. CH29 is Patek Philippe’s first self-produced manual chronograph movement. It was first used on a male watch 5170 in 2010 (first used on a female chronograph in 2009). CH29 is a traditional manual chronograph movement that uses a combination of cylindrical wheels and horizontal clutches. After five years of research and development on the CH29, Patek Philippe has used 6 patented technologies to improve the performance of the movement (the main improvements are in technical details such as accurate zeroing and timing start without jitter). The size of the CH29 movement is 29.6 mm, the thickness is 5.35 mm, and the swing frequency is 28,800 times per hour. The structure of the movement is complex and complex, and has been fully polished, with the Patek Philippe mark. At the same time there are two technical details, the column wheel with adjustable cap, which is a feature of Patek Philippe manual chronograph; the minute timing of the CH29 chronograph movement is one minute. CH29 represents one of the highest levels of manual chronograph movements.

The L951.5 manual chronograph movement used in the Lange 1815 chronograph.
 The other party representing the highest level of current manual chronograph movements is Lange’s manual chronograph movements. The Lange 1815 chronograph uses a Lange L951.5 manual chronograph movement. That is, DATO has removed the version of the large calendar and mobile storage. Similarly, the Lange L951.5 manual chronograph movement also uses a combination of column wheels and horizontal clutches. The movement size is 30.6 mm, the thickness is 6.1 mm, and the swing frequency is 18000 times / hour. The Lange chronograph movement has always been extremely luxurious and unparalleled. The Lange movement is made of German silver splint. The movement splint has a slight gold color, plus a gold sleeve, blue steel screws, and intricately twisted levers. The Lange L951.5 movement is equipped with a flyback function, and also uses a cardless fine adjustment weight balance and Lange’s own hairspring (the old chronograph movement before Lange used a screw balance). The minute count of the Lange L951.5 movement is also one minute.
Patek Philippe and Lange embarked on different paths.

The upper part is Patek Philippe 5172 and the lower part is Lange 1815 chronograph, both of which are top brands. Both have taken different paths.
 As can be seen from the 5172 and 1815 chronographs above, as the top manual chronographs, Patek Philippe tends to be retro and sporty, while Lange tends to be classic and formal. In terms of movement, Patek Philippe incorporates more modern technology, while Lange maintains more traditional configurations. In fact, from the new models of Patek Philippe and Lange in these years, we can find that Patek Philippe 5524, 5520, 5168, 5212, 5320, etc., are closer to the current trend of retro watches, sports (and appropriately increasing size). Lange’s German dress watch style, whether it is the 25th anniversary model of the Lange 1 or the new owl calendar, etc. The two top brands have different paths.